Stewart's Point root beer rest stop
We woke up and made eggs for the first time on the trip. KOA has its benefits... They were pretty good, too! It got hotter throughout the day, which I didn't care for but Derek loved! The highlight of the day was a little town (if you can even call it that) called Stewart's Point. Boy was it cute! It had a post office, a general store, an old water tower and a magnificent view. It is these little gems along the coast that make it so unique. I guarantee there is no place just like this anywhere else in the world. We stopped at the post office to drink a root beer and write some postcards. I could have sat there for hours just taking in the view. The post office employee was super nice too. As he was taking down the flag for the day, he started talking to us. He explained all of his ideas on how to make Highway 1 more cyclist friendly. This included doing a bike tour that followed the whale migration up the west coast. How awesome would that be! If only more people thought like him. Talking to people like this in small towns is one of my favorite parts of this trip. They have insights that they love to share and are usually very friendly. There is no better way to learn about your new surroundings. After saying good bye we set off to Stillwater Park. The road was winding and beautiful again, which is what I have come to expect from this wonderful region. We got to the campsite to find that Zoe and Rob had beaten us, again! Justin showed up a little after us. It was a neat little campsite. The hiker/biker sites were secluded off to the side which is always nice. We had a good fire thanks to a camper donating his leftover firewood. We talked about music, kayak trips in Canada and played frisbee. I did not use the frisbee as much as I thought I would, but it was a nice treat to bring it out. I also learned that pay phones are not any good, at all... Tomorrow we meet up with Roxanne and her parents! Woo Hoo!
We woke up on a mission! We were going to find Glass Beach no matter what. We went to the entrance and talked to one of the rangers. They told us that it was actually 4 miles south. This was perfect because that is exactly the way we are going! After skidding in the gravel along the way and taking some videos for fun, we met up with Team Canada, Zoe and Rob, at Glass Beach. There was a sign and everything. We went down and saw a bunch of people scavenging the beach. We climbed down the cliff and there it was. Glass everywhere! It really was covered with glass! There was a dump a long time ago just up the hill and after all of the years of dumping it into the ocean, all that remains is perfectly rounded beach glass. It literally covers the entire beach. Green, clear and brown glass is abundant. Pretty neat stuff. After playing in the glass for a while, we were on our way. Along the way was the coastal town of Mendocino. I was really excited to visit this town. It is just gorgeous! Right on the ocean, beautiful houses, a cute downtown and the Mendocino Art Center! I was in a show juried by Christa Assad called "To Go" earlier this year and I was excited to tour the art center. We met Derek, who is the head of the ceramics department. He was super nice and showed us around. It's a really neat place! It's cool to see places you send your work but are unable to make it to the show, especially on the other side of the country! On our way out of Mendocino we met up with Team Canada and the guy from Seattle. It is really fun when you randomly meet up with people you know again. We took a really panoramic cool picture with Seattle's iPhone on the edge of a cliff. After that, he sped off ahead of us, never to be seen again. Some people come and go, others come and stay for a while. We stopped in Elk, CA for lunch. We had more great sandwiches, these claimed to be "World Famous," at Elk Store. This is a really cute convenience store with hardwood floors, an old enamel food case and fantastic sandwiches. They even had Abita Root Beer which is made in Louisiana! I began to love that stuff after touring the facilities earlier this summer while visiting a friend. After lunch, we set out and ran into Team Canada several times throughout the day. Highway 1 is not as cyclist friendly as 101 due to a lack of a shoulder. This makes things a bit scarier, but we are doing fine so far. The road winds away and towards the ocean when the coast juts in and out. This makes for really fun, fast descents and difficult, curvy ascents right away. I'd say the descents are worth it! There was a straightaway in which we encountered the craziest of scenes. A vulture flew out of the trees that were to the right of us right in front of me. An old Winnebago was driving towards us and the vulture flew right into the corner of it at full speed. The vulture flies past me and heads towards Derek. It smashes to the ground and skids a while. Derek and I stop to see if it is dead. It lays there for a bit and then somehow stands up. It is still for a moment, then kind of shakes his head as if to say, "Whew!" It was acting just like a human. It then immediately flies away as if nothing happened. I could not believe my eyes! Amazing. We kept riding and eventually ended up at a KOA. I was hesitant to stay there, since we had only been staying at State Parks. I will admit the hot tub and free showers were very welcoming. As Derek and I were enjoying the hot tub, who walks up but Justin! We had split off from him days ago. He was doing the Lost Coast Alternate route which had some insanely steep climbs. I can't believe we ended up together again! After making dinner with Team Canada and Justin we talked for a while and went to sleep feeling pretty good.
Abandoned house in Westport. Future residence?
This is it. Today we tackle Leggett Hill. We have been fearing this day the whole trip. What better way to start it off than with cold, microwaved breakfast burritos from a convenience store? (Not the best...) After a short ride out of the campsite we arrive at the Chandelier Tree, the biggest, oldest and most famous of the drive thru trees. I wasn't sure where it was exactly, so it was exciting to come across it. It is one of the sights from my postcards that I was looking most forward to see. It has the same sign on the outside and is still functional (some of them have fallen over the years). I was pleased to see a lot of cars coming through still, even though it's better on a bike! I am glad that others see the charm in these types of places too. After pedaling out, and through, the Chandelier Tree, we knew we were headed towards Leggett Hill. This is where we split off of Highway 101 and onto Highway 1. We will miss 101, it was nice. We were nervous and then realized we were starting the ascent. We keep riding and wonder, "When is it going to get bad?" I keep pedaling and pedaling and cruising uphill. I passed a couple riders and was feeling good. This isn't so bad! The hill starts to level out and I realize I had reached the top. I actually enjoyed the ride up! All this hoopla for nothing! Preparing for the hill I knew there was a descent even bigger than the ascent, which I was very excited for. I began. I kept going and going and going. Winding hairpin turns with almost no traffic! Perfect descent! This one was long enough too! Not too shabby. After the descent, we passed a rider from Korea who was walking his bike. I found out that one of his spokes had broken, so I asked him if he wanted me to true it like I had done to mine. He said yes. Well, his bike turned out to be very old and when I started to true it, another spoke snapped! This is terrible. There was no way to repair it now. It was too bad to ride at all. I don't think there is any worse feeling than trying to help someone and then making it ten times worse. UGH! He was riding with a tall, brute German. We all worked together to find him a ride. After about a half an hour trying, a local biker stopped with his truck and was more than happy to take him to the next town that had a bike shop. Perfect! My fears were gone and I knew everything would work out. Back to riding. We rode with the friendly German until the next town where Derek and I stopped to eat lunch. It was a little seaside town called Westport. It was by far the most charming town we have come across so far. It just felt right. There was even a huge whale sculpture being built by a local resident. He had buttons for sale in the town store/deli/gas station to raise money to finish it. Souvenirs? Yes! This store was SO COOL! Here is his WEBSITE. It was a grandma running it with her two grandchildren helping out. They were so cute! The little boy helped someone get gas with the archaic pump and you could have sworn he was a 50 year old man. I love that kind of stuff. The people he was helping has a sweet vintage trailer and Wagoneer and we had actually seen them in Garberville. They were going along the coast at the same speed as us. They know how road trip right! After devouring the best sandwich of the trip so far, we left to find our campsite. Leggett was so much easier than we had planned that we decided to go farther than we had planned. Next stop, MacKerricher State Park. We rode past a street with neat old bungalow houses and I knew I'd be back someday. Vacation house?!?! It was a pleasant winding route to the park. We made good time and got to the site with plenty of daylight left. As we were unpacking, a couple from Canada rode up. Zoe and Rob were their names. Super cool folks! Another rider came that we had seen in Westport as we were rolling out. His bike was out of this world and I was a little obsessed with it. Another guy from Seattle showed up and we had a good time talking with everyone. It has to be mentioned also that Cleone, CA has the best convenience store ever! Everything was reasonably priced and they even had Annie's Organic Mac n' Cheese! WOO HOO!!! We walked to the beach with Zoe and Rob trying to find the elusive Glass Beach. Apparently, there is a beach that is completely covered with beach glass. Even after asking directions, we couldn't find it. We are going to try again in the morning. We did, however, see a funny sight. A dad with at least seven kids was scurrying around freaking out making sure everyone was safe and listening to him. Seems like a normal scene, right? False. He turns around, and on the back of his homemade hoodie is written, "READY FOR ANYTHING!" I don't think so... After a group fire we went to sleep. Great day!
We woke up late this morning, again. I really thought that by now we would be getting up at sunrise, but that is just not the case. I guess riding all day is taking the energy out of us. There were a couple of cargo bikes at the site last night with a tarp strung between them. I never saw whose they were until this morning, when I saw two girls in sleeping bags under the tarp. We got to talking this morning and I found out that they built the bikes themselves during an apprenticeship with ANT Bikes. The bikes had a huge rack low to the ground in front of the handlebars with a small wheel in front of that. They were able to pile up all of their stuff in this basket-like rack which made packing as easy as pie. The bikes looked really hard to ride, so I asked if I could try one out. They said yes and boy was I wrong! The bikes handled like a normal bike after just a few seconds of riding. I have been wanting to get a cargo bike to go to the grocery store and to do other errands instead of using the car, and this only made me want one more! Very cool. After this excitement, we headed out to finish up the last 25 miles of the Avenue of the Giants towards Legget. It was just as nice as the day before. I snapped a few more photos based on my postcard booklet, including a shot of a fallen Redwood. These things are bigger than you would believe! After the Avenue, it started to get hot, real hot. There was suddenly no more trees near the road and the sun was beating down hard. Once we reached Garberville, which was full of hippies and wanderers, it was well into the upper 90s. We almost ran out of water at one point, so we stopped at a roadside Bigfoot souvenir stand. After getting water from a hose and some Gatorade-like drinks, we met a fellow cyclist from Wisconsin. He had packed extremely light, was eating just granola bars and riding around 100 miles a day. After talking with him, we all decided that he was doing it all wrong. He was missing most of the fund of taking it easy, stopping to see the sights and eating a LOT! After more riding in the heat, a lost and then found cell phone incident and an ice cream bar later, we were in the Redwoods again. We passed the Believe It Or Not Tree House. It turns out that this was the tree from my postcard booklet, not the one from the day before. This one was far more impressive and interesting. The gift shop was even better! It had some stuff on the shelves that must have been sitting there for years. Just the kind of stuff I have been looking for! I got something that was perfect for a donor and we were off to the races. We finally got to the campsite and found a TON of other cyclists, by far the most we have seen at one campsite. After the hardest day of riding by far, we were pooped. It felt like we were back in Florida for a while. We took some much needed showers, ate and are now ready for bed. Tomorrow we ride to from Leggett to Westport. This section has the biggest hills to climb out of our whole trip, up to 2600 feet! Wish us luck!
Carson Mansion in Eureka
This morning we had to pack up and leave Laurel and Fisher's house. To say it was sad, depressing and awful would be a vast understatement. I gained some new family and I don't think I could have had a better time with the two of them. What great folks! After we said our good byes and see you soons, Derek and I headed to downtown Eureka to see the Carson Mansion, and boy was it a mansion. It is an over-the-top Victorian house built by a logging tycoon back in the day. It is now a club of sorts and sadly there are no tours for the general public. Seeing the outside of it was good enough for me. We rode out of Eureka and hit Loleta, famous for their cheese factory (that we did not stop at). Instead, we went to the LOLETA BAKERY, which was recommended by a bike rider we met changing a flat on his LANDSHARK bike. I am so glad he did! I got a pizza with yams, onions and broccoli. It was off the chain! Derek and I agreed that this was just the kind of place that Roxanne could open up! After Loleta came the small town of Ferndale. This place was straight out of a movie. There were Victorian homes around every corner, a cute main street/downtown, a workshop with a guy building wooden kayaks in the front window and a model boat builder who's family has lived here since 1850. It was a place I could see myself living and having my goats and chickens! It was neat. After riding through endless farms and meeting a rider from Switzerland, we arrived at the famous Avenue of the Giants. I don't think the Redwoods will ever let me down. Immediately the area grew quiet and shaded with a warm breezes. This section has some of the tallest and oldest Redwoods in existence. Riding through them on bike really lets you grasp how big and powerful they are. I brought with me a vintage souvenir booklet of postcards of the Redwood Highway. The pictures that unfold in the book are of famous sights along the Redwood Highway and dates back to the 1950s. Part of this trip was for me to find out what is still around from these postcards and how they have changed. I took a picture at the Eternal Tree House, a room with windows carved out of a Redwood, and one at the Founder's Tree, which was once the tallest living tree in the world. It was cool to see these things still around and how they have changed, and remained the same. This is the nostalgia I am in love with, and I am glad to see others still find it charming. On the other hand, I have to admit that I have been very bummed out with the souvenir shops. I had great dreams of seeing neat gifts similar to those I collect from garage sales and antique stores. Unfortunately, they all have the same boring, in-unique items that the next has. For some reason, it seems like people don't put as much effort into creating the objects that people collect to remember their trips. Maybe people don't care as much due to digital cameras and iPhones. A tacky, not kitschy enough shot glass does the trick for some, but not me. I hope to find some antique shops soon to find some of these forgotten treasures. On the way to the campsite Derek spotted a dead baby deer. It was laying on the ground gracefully, as if it was sleeping, not dead. Though it was sad, it was beautiful at the same time. I think it may come up in a ceramic piece down the line. Keep an eye out. We arrived at the campsite to find it full of new people. Our rest day put us a day behind our friends we have met along the way and on track with a new group of people. We met a cool couple from San Francisco and had a nice chat. Turns out he knows some people from Gainesville! He also has a set of Swift Industries PANNIERS, just like me. I highly recommend these handmade in the USA bags (If you know me you know I love bags)! They also each had a set of small antlers they found at a thrift store attached to their bikes. Cool! After eating my leftover pizza from the bakery and some more chocolate chip cookies, I am ready for bed. I do miss hanging out with Laurel and Fisher though! A game of chase the bad guys (Derek and I being chased by Fisher) would be pretty fun right now.
One of many starfish at Secret Beach
We woke up today to a breakfast of parmesan cheese bagels with avocado, eggs and cheese. YUMMAY! We watched Dinosaur Train with Fisher before heading out to the secret beach, which I will not disclose the location of. Derek and I rode past it the day before and had no clue it was there. We had to climb down a steep cliff with a rope to help from slipping. At the bottom, we found a secret little cove with pebbles instead of sand. The rocks were the kind that you have to buy by the the scoop full in Florida souvenir shops. It was amazing! There were giant rocks out in the water and cliffs and jungle all around us. It is a very special place! Laurel showed us the tide pools off to the side which were FULL of bright orange and purple starfish and neon green envenoms. Straight out of a National Geographic magazine. It was fun to run around the beach with Fisher. We left and went to straight to their favorite pizza place. We got the lunch special, a build your own pizza with a salad and soda. Doesn't get any better than that! They needed a sucker fish to help clean their fish tank, so naturally we went to the pet store, but not before driving through the local park with a REDWOOD FOREST right in the middle of it! Only in California… Just as it seemed that things couldn't get any better, Laurel offered to bake some chocolate chip cookies. Yep, we were in heaven. At this point, Derek and I were not sure we could go back to the riding all day and sleeping in a tent lifestyle we had become accustomed to. How could we possibly make it?! The cookies turned out amazing, no surprise there. After cookies and left over pizza, we went to feed the horses across the street. This is getting a little sickening isn't it? I LOVE IT! We had an intense play session with Fisher again which included me slightly loosing my voice. That kid is full of energy! Also, Fisher and I devised a new way to fist pound. Instead of saying Pound It! Fisher heard Ka-But (pronounced Kuh-Boot). It is pretty much the coolest thing since sliced bread. I don't know if I am going to be able to leave this place tomorrow. I feel right at home.
One of the roadside attractions I was looking forward to most are the multiple drive thru trees in the Redwoods. These trees are so enormous that tunnels have been carved out and cars, trucks and bikes can drive through them. These were one of the earliest road trip attractions and are still around today. I think it's interesting that simple attractions like these have stuck around until today. I enjoy the nostalgia they bring to the table. We encountered our first drive through tree today in Klamath. There was a small "welcome center" and entrance before the tree. The lady in charge was constantly smiling and when I asked her what it was like to have this job, she said it was great because people are always happy when they come. I thought that was sweet. I feel like it would be pretty cool to be a part of this Americana tradition. Plus it was only a dollar to ride your bike through. Nice! We later encountered some trees that could have been drive through trees if they were cut all the way through. We could stand in them with our bikes sideways. WHOA!
Horizon Organic Farm
We left Patrick's Point this morning on our way to Eureka to stay with Roxanne's cousin Laurel and her son Fisher, and take a day off. We slept in and had an easy morning. We hiked down to the water to see a group of seals sun bathing on the rocks at the bottom of the cliff. It was so cold you could see the seals breath! It made them seem human-like, which was funny. Our first stop of the ride was a gas station in Trinidad to make a couple of phone calls home. Derek noticed a sign for $1 tacos, so I ventured in. Expecting some frozen, microwave tacos, I was delighted to find homemade tacos from a restaurant called the Aztec Grill inside the station. It was so good I had to get two more, of course. We sat down to eat and saw a couple of fishermen with their waterproof overalls folded down. I knew we were in a neat, small town when I saw this. It felt like I was going back in time, even though I was eating Mexican food in a gas station… After riding though countless farms, riding over an old train bridge and passing a bunch of baby cows, we saw a Horizon Organic Farm. It was cool to see a far that supplies a company that I sometimes buy milk from. It seemed like a good place to me, which makes me feel good about buying organic foods when I can. Once we hit Arcata, we coincidentally passed the local co-op. Our friend Larry, from New Jersey, told us that the deli was supposed to be good. Guess what, it was! After lunch, we stopped at three bike shops. My rear wheel had broken five spokes at this point which unfortunately meant I needed a new rear wheel. I finally found one at the third shop and got all fixed up. We were on our way to Laurel's in Eureka, but not before Derek ran over his second nail! We were warmly greeted by Laurel and Fisher and their dog Raley and their five chickens. They live in an awesome, brown shingled house with a kick-butt tree house built by Laurel's dad, Billy (famous for his elaborate tree house-like house and school bus house). Fisher warmed up to Derek and I instantly and was ready to play! After a great dinner with our new family, we played with Fisher all night (he LOVES cars!). It was a welcomed change from setting up the tent, eating dinner and crashing. After watching some cheesy cooking shows on late night TV, Derek and I went to bed, on actual beds. Feels nice after camping night after night. I think we are going to fit in just fine here. I am excited for our rest day tomorrow!
With Paul and Babe!
Today turned out to be a race against the clock. At the beginning of the day, we decided to catch up with Ben, who always got ready and left way before we did, at Elk Prairie Reserve State Park. Derek and I were riding with Justin again today. The day stated with our climb up the "mountain." I was not looking forward to riding up what we rode down yesterday to get to the campsite. We reluctantly set out and I stormed up the nearly vertical hill. I may have made it out to be worse than it was, but I just kept chugging along and made it to the top. It took me 26 minutes to get up the 2 mile hill, but I was very proud of myself. I thought I would have to walk some of it, but I stayed on the bike for the entirety of the ride. Once at the top, it was all worth it because we had a huge descent ahead of us from the climb the day before. We were speeding down the hill through a dense layer of fog. It was everything I had pictured before coming out here. You could barely see 20 feet in front of you, let alone realize that the ocean was just 100 feet down the cliff to the right of us. We stopped at a scenic vista and took in the beauty. It is something else to be able to watch the fog literally roll in and blanket the coastline. Just amazing. After reaching the bottom of the hill, which is always a bummer, and riding for a bit we reached Klamath. This was one of the stops I was looking most forward to. There is a giant statue of Paul Bunyan and Babe the Blue Ox. If you remember from the Timberline Lodge mosaic at Mount Hood, I have a fascination with this folk tale. The statue is at the entrance of the Trees of Mystery, which was on the billboard we saw yesterday. The statues are almost archaic looking. They look like giant reproductions of a folk art carving. They are extremely simplified, but get the job done. They tower over you and make you feel like a bug. They also use a bit of humor with a hand that waves, an eye that blinks and a talking voice. That's right, they have someone somewhere listening to the audience and talking back to them through a speaker. We could not figure out where they were hidden, which added to the mysteriousness. It was very entertaining. I love to add humor to my work to make it more approachable, and this is an instance in which it works in the "real world." I wanted to see how folklore varied throughout the country, and this gave me chance to do this. I have seen one of these statues in Bemidji, MN and this one was a bit more simplified. Maybe it was due to the logging traditions and the redwood carvings that came from this. These redwood carvings that I have seen so far on the trip have been simplified and sometimes just plain awful. Nevertheless, they are a blast to look at, and of course, I would want one in my yard. They had a great gift shop here with a cabinet of vintage souvenirs, which included a museum of Native Americans of the Pacific Northwest. It was very cool to see some of the artwork and crafts from the natives of this area. My favorite pieces were a rug with a beautiful geometric pattern and a seal intestine rain jacket. Some of my favorite inspirations for my work are quilt patterns and animals, so these two objects fit in perfectly. After soaking all of this in, we set out to reach Elk Prairie. It was a nice day of riding until we reached the campsite, where there was no Ben to be found. We got there relatively early, so we figured he had kept going to the next campsite, Patrick's Point. We had heard this was one of the best campsites on the route, so we decided to try to catch up. We left, but not after talking to another bike tourist who was moving from Seattle to Missoula! This was too funny because I am going to Missoula for a two month residency at the Clay Studio of Missoula and I just left Seattle which I would love to move to some day. Great minds think alike. Shortly after leaving the campsite we saw a herd of Elk grazing in a field. They were huge and very elegant. They would jump over a fence, but it looked like they were simply stepping over it. We stopped at a convenience store to get some food for dinner and found a jar of peanut butter for $9.50! What!?! It is always best to stock up at supermarkets. We passed a campsite that was listed as having no water to see if Ben was there, but luckily it was closed, so we kept going. Water is kind of a necessity. As we were going up a hill, I broke another spoke on my rear wheel. This was it. I could barely ride the bike forward, as the wheel was wobbling so bad that it was hitting the brake pads. We tried to find me a ride to the campsite, but nobody offered. It was getting late and starting to get dark, so I trued the wheel the best I could and we kept going. I knew that since spokes kept breaking, I had to replace the wheel. That was tomorrow's mission. Luckily we would be in Arcata, where there are several bike shops. We finally made it to Patrick's point in pitch black dark. Of course Ben was there, about to go to sleep. He always beats us! We set up camp, had some spaghetti (with real tomato sauce) and our beloved Cherry Pepsis and hit the sack. Today was a long day. Some of the best sights of the trip so far!
Cal-i-forn-ia lo-ve, duh nuh nuh nuh nuh nuh nuh nuh, duh nuh nuh nuh nuh nuh nuh! I have been singing that Tupac song a lot lately. After stopping at McDonalds again for breakfast (still not sure why we go there for anything but shakes) we headed to the Golden State with Justin. Justin is from Vancouver, Canada and is a heck of a guy (he is riding from Vancouver to San Diego!). It is nice riding with other people for long periods of time, which we ended up doing today. On our way to the border, I got a little confused with the map and we ended up taking a "scenic detour," AKA got lost, and turned back. Eight miles later we were back on track and almost to the border. And then, all of a sudden, there it was - the sign! We made it all the way to sunny California, which it actually was. As soon as we crossed the border, and told the guards that we had no fruit, we were free to roam the countryside. Although it was probably gradually getting warmer as we were going south, it seemed automatically warmer and brighter in California. We were riding through a lot of farmland which was pleasantly scenic. We stumbled upon a herd of cows and stopped to watch. They were just as interested in us as we were them. As we left, we noticed that they started to follow us. We stopped and went again. They stopped and went again. It was hilarious and one of those things that made my day that much better. They were even running after us, which made us feel pretty special! After more farmland and winding roads, we hit a coastal road again. The wind going out to the ocean was intense. We even thought about going an alternate route to get through Crescent City. I am so glad we didn't! Once we hit the coast it was just breathtaking. The ocean was blue as blue can be, the waves were crashing and the rock formations were more dramatic than ever. Postcard-worthy! Outside of Crescent City we saw our first Redwoods billboard advertising the Trees of Mystery. I was really excited, as I am most looking forward to seeing the Redwoods. I knew we were close. Before I knew it, we had begun the climb into the Redwoods. The Crescent City hill is billed to be one of the toughest climbs of the trip, and it was! It was a steep, narrow, winding shoulder-less climb up into the Redwoods. Seeing the first Redwood of the trip made the climb worth it! They are so overwhelming it's insane. I had ample amount of time during the climb to take in the wonderful views. Directly at the top of the climb was our campground, sort of. We turned left towards the campground and saw a sign that said "Campground 2.5 mies." Not too bad until we noticed the steepest descent of our trip. It was 2.5 miles straight down to the campsite, which is fun, until you realize you are going to have to ride up it in the morning! UGHHH. We made the best of it and reached our highest speeds of the trip yet, 36 MPH. The campsite was great, right in the middle of the Redwoods. There was a trail that circled the campground that took us through the forest. One bummer about California is that they charge you to take showers. And they are timed! Oregon has free, as-long-as-you-want-showers, which are one of the best parts of the night. Oh well, saving water is good I suppose. Wish me luck on tomorrow's climb out of here.